TidBITS#407/01-Dec-97
=====================

  Considering a digital camera, but not sure what you're getting
  into? This issue, guest writer Arthur Bleich introduces us to the
  facts and facets of digital photography. Also, Tom Geweke looks at
  MkLinux, the Apple-sponsored version of Unix for PowerPC machines,
  and we note new releases of SiteCam and CopyPaste, plus a preview
  of Apple's flagship media technology: QuickTime 3.0.

Topics:
    MailBITS/01-Dec-97
    Running Linux on Your Mac
    Focusing on Digital Cameras, Part 1: Higher Is Better

<http://www.tidbits.com/tb-issues/TidBITS-407.html>
<ftp://ftp.tidbits.com/pub/tidbits/issues/1997/TidBITS#407_01-Dec-97.etx>

Copyright 1997 TidBITS Electronic Publishing. All rights reserved.
   Information: <info@tidbits.com> Comments: <editors@tidbits.com>
   ---------------------------------------------------------------

This issue of TidBITS sponsored in part by:
* APS Technologies -- 800/443-4199 -- <sales@apstech.com>
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   APS product info and price lists: <http://www.apstech.com/>

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MailBITS/01-Dec-97
------------------

**QuickTime 3.0 Preview** -- Today, Apple released a much-awaited
  developer preview of QuickTime 3.0, also known as the QuickTime
  Media Layer. QuickTime is one of Apple's most successful
  technologies, and Apple hopes to extend its reach by making
  QuickTime 3.0 fully cross-platform. Currently, Windows users can
  play back QuickTime media, but with QuickTime 3.0, both Windows
  and Mac developers will have full access to QuickTime's
  capabilities - playback, authoring, capture, compression, and
  more. Along with the many formats already supported, QuickTime 3.0
  adds support for a variety of cross-platform and high-end video,
  image, and audio formats, including the forthcoming DV digital
  video format. QuickTime 3.0 also handles fast-downloading vector
  graphics, plus real-time effects and transitions. Apple's message
  to developers is simple: QuickTime offers the best media support
  for both Mac and Windows.

<http://devworld.apple.com/mkt/informed/appledirections/aug97/
stratmosaic.html>

  The Macintosh preview requires System 7.0 or later, at least 8 MB
  of RAM and a 68020 processor (some features are PowerPC-only). If
  you work with digital media or video, it's worth checking out,
  especially if you're a programmer - both sample files and copious
  developer information are available at the QuickTime 3.0 preview
  site. The download is about 3.7 MB. [GD]

<http://quicktime.apple.com/preview/>


**French Translators Needed!** If you're fluent in French and want
  to help spread Macintosh news to other French speakers around the
  world, the award-winning French translation of TidBITS needs more
  volunteer translators to share the task of translating TidBITS
  each week. Contact the coordinator of the French translation team,
  Emmanuel Decarie <edecarie@aei.ca>, if you're interested in
  helping. [ACE]

<http://www.tidbits.com/tb-issues/lang/fr/>


**CopyPaste 4.0.2 Released** -- Script Software International last
  week announced the release of the multiple clipboard utility
  CopyPaste 4.0.2, a major upgrade from version 3.2.2, reviewed in
  (TidBITS-364_). New features include a CopyPaste Palette that
  provides visual access to ten clipboards plus all other CopyPaste
  features, support for drag & drop, and the capability to view and
  modify clipboards. Also new are tools that convert back and forth
  between special characters and HTML entities, wrap text at 60
  characters for email formatting, and convert short dates to long
  date formats. [ACE]

<http://www.scriptsoftware.com/copypaste/>
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=00751>


**Holiday Home Page Contest** -- If you have a home page and plan
  to decorate it for the upcoming holiday season (no matter what
  your religious or philosophical angle), consider entering the
  "Homepage for the Holidays 1997 WebAwards" contest, hosted by the
  Silicon Valley chapters of the Association of Internet
  Professionals (AIP) and WebGrrls International. The judges will
  rate entries based on their creativity, elegance, and fun; pages
  can be for people or organizations. Prizes include PalmPilots and
  AIP memberships, and you must submit your entry no later than
  14-Dec-97. TidBITS's sister publication, NetBITS, is one of the
  contest's sponsors. [TJE]

<http://www.guild.usweb.com/holiday/>


**SiteCam Turns 1.1** -- Last week, Rearden Technology released
  SiteCam 1.1, a free upgrade to owners of the $129 SiteCam 1.0.
  SiteCam, software that controls and automates setting up a Web
  camera (one that places images or video on a Web site), now has
  anti-hijacking features that prevent other sites from grabbing a
  SiteCam video stream and displaying it elsewhere (this problem is
  generic to Web camera software). In addition to some bug fixes,
  the new version improves archiving of QuickTime time-lapse movies,
  streaming video, caption display, and documentation. [TJE]

<http://www.rearden.com/sitecam/>


Running Linux on Your Mac
-------------------------
  by Tom Gewecke <tom@bluesky.org>

  Most computer users have had some contact (or a run in) with Unix,
  long the dominant operating system for universities, research
  labs, and the Internet. However, hardware requirements, software
  costs, and Unix's inherently cryptic nature usually put this OS
  beyond the reach of home users. In the early 1990s, Linus Torvalds
  at the University of Helsinki in Finland and an international
  group of volunteers developed a freeware Unix clone called Linux.
  Linux has since become widely available to PC owners, with several
  thick book/CD-ROM packages on the shelves of most computer book
  stores. In 1997, similar versions of Linux were released for
  PowerPC-based Macs; this article discusses my non-expert
  experience installing and using one of them: MkLinux.


**Why Bother?** Why would anyone want to run Unix on a Mac? You
  can't use Mac applications, and the complicated command-line
  interface is as far from the Mac OS as one can get. Isn't Unix the
  antithesis of Macintosh? I installed MkLinux to educate myself
  about an important OS, and to learn how a true multi-user system
  with preemptive multitasking and protected memory works.

  Folks with deeper technical knowledge may find other aspects
  attractive. For example, Linux can be used to run an Internet
  server, with all the usual services and some functions the Mac OS
  can't yet provide, like true multihoming. Programmers - many of
  whom used Unix in school - will appreciate that powerful
  compilers, editors, and other tools are readily available for
  Linux, plus the source code for the whole system (and many
  applications) is available so you can experiment and customize.
  Someone who uses Unix at the office can use Linux to do the same
  on a Mac at home. Finally, let's not forget that Rhapsody, Apple's
  forthcoming operating system based on NeXT technology, includes a
  full Unix implementation, although it'll be hidden unless users
  specifically access it.


**Choices** -- There are two easily accessible versions of Linux
  for the Macintosh Power PC. MkLinux, sponsored by Apple, is a port
  of Linux running on top of a Mach microkernel. A CD-ROM/book
  combination with Developer Release 2.1 (DR2.1) is sold by Prime
  Time Freeware for $50. MkLinux generally runs on PowerPC 601-based
  NuBus Macs and PowerPC 604-based PCI machines, but not (yet) on
  603 boxes or (reportedly) on Apple's new G3 systems. You need at
  least 500 MB of disk space (on a separate disk or drive partition
  from the Mac OS startup disk) and a bare minimum of 8 MB of RAM.

<http://www.mklinux.apple.com/>
<http://www.ptf.com/>

  Since DR2.1 was issued early in 1997, six updates have been
  produced, available only by downloading from the Internet;
  altogether, the updates are more than 200 MB. For this article,
  I've stuck with version 2.1. The one major deficiency I've found
  in MkLinux is that it cannot print over the serial port. Users
  with PCI machines also report PPP does not work, except possibly
  under the fifth update.

<http://www.mklinux.apple.com/info/ftp.html>

  The second option is Linux for PowerPC (linux-pmac), a
  conventional, non-Mach port produced by a group of volunteers led
  by Paul Mackerras at Australian National University. A $32 CD-ROM
  recently became available for this system, which is supposed to
  work on all Macs that use Open Firmware, a process that controls
  hardware initialization and diagnostics before an operating system
  loads. This excludes PowerPC-based 601 NuBus machines and
  apparently some Performas, but does include PowerPC 604-based
  machines and many PowerPC 603-based Macs.

<http://www.linuxppc.org/>

  I have a Mac with a PowerPC 601 processor, so I haven't tried
  linux-pmac. Linux for 68K Macs is currently under development.

  If neither MkLinux nor linux-pmac capture your fancy, two other
  non-commercial Unix-like operating systems are available for the
  Mac, NetBSD (formerly MacBSD) and OpenBSD. These work on some Mac
  models and are available on CD-ROM for $35 and $30 respectively.
  If you'd like to consider a commercial alternative, check out the
  highly regarded MachTen from Tenon Intersystems. [Tenon also
  recently created WebTen, a Mac application combining Tenon's Unix
  technology with the popular Apache Web server. -Adam]

<http://www.netbsd.org/>
<http://www.openbsd.org/>
<http://www.tenon.com/>

  All these ports are sensitive to the type and model of machine
  they are installed on, so double-check with FAQs, mailing lists,
  and vendors to make sure your particular Mac or clone will work
  with a particular Unix offering. The rest of this article refers
  to MkLinux DR2.1, which works fine on my Performa 6116.


**Installation** -- Installing MkLinux DR2.1 was easy and
  straightforward using the CD-ROMs and book from Prime Time
  Freeware (PTF). The most difficult part was formatting my hard
  disk with the correct partitions. I have an external 1 GB hard
  disk from APS, and its formatting software could not set up Unix
  drive partitions. Using ResEdit to modify Apple's HD SC Setup
  program (as described in the PTF book) did the trick, however. I
  also had a little trouble setting up networking; MkLinux includes
  a command called setnet to facilitate setting up PPP and LAN
  connections. I also had to edit the default chat script to make
  MkLinux dial my modem and connect to my ISP.

  After installing DR2.1, I found a new control panel in the Mac OS,
  which can be set so that when the computer starts you get a dialog
  box enabling you to start MkLinux. Virtual Memory and RAM Doubler
  must be disabled for it to work (although this has been remedied
  in recent updates).

  If you need help, you can count on a sympathetic attitude from
  lots of other folks running MkLinux on a wide variety of machines.
  At least ten mailing lists covering MkLinux topics are hosted by
  Apple, and traffic is substantial on most of them. There are also
  a number of FAQs and help pages on the Web, including the Linux on
  the PowerPC FAQ-O-Matic.

<http://www.dartmouth.edu/cgi-bin/cgiwrap/jonh/lppc/faq.pl>


**Learning the Ropes** -- If you don't know or remember much about
  Unix commands, there will be some learning required before you can
  do anything. The PTF book is of only modest assistance; the best
  approach is to borrow or buy one of the several tomes available on
  Linux for PCs. I used a copy of Linux Unleashed which I found on
  sale.

<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ISBN=0672309084/tidbitselectro00A/>

  Most important to master are the procedures for booting up and
  shutting down; setting up user accounts; moving around the file
  system; copying, moving, and renaming files; modifying file
  permissions; accessing the hard disk; reading and editing text
  files using the program vi (not easy to get used to!); downloading
  via FTP (although you can use FTP in the Mac OS if you want); and
  decompressing, building, and installing new programs.

  These tasks are non-intuitive and seem daunting at first, though
  they turned out to be easier than I expected. Neat graphical
  programs are available that enable you to bypass much of the
  command maze, but you are unlikely to install and run them
  correctly unless you can deal with the basics.


**Running X Windows** -- Unix is not a completely text-based
  world. MkLinux duplicates X Windows, a graphical interface which
  you start by typing the command X11. In its most basic form, X
  provides you with independent windows within which you can execute
  the usual commands. The system can, however, be made more
  elaborate through the use of window managers that allow you to
  customize the desktop.

  MkLinux DR2.1 comes with two free window managers, the bare-bones
  Tab Window Manager (twm) plus the Freeware Window Manager (fvwm2).
  The latter has nice 3-D borders and enables the user to create
  scrolling windows, multiple "pages" or desktops, and all sorts of
  buttons for initiating action without typing commands.

<http://www.hpc.uh.edu/fvwm/>

  X Windows has plenty of applications, many of which are free and
  look and work like their analogues for the Mac or Windows. On my
  MkLinux setup I was able to install attractive graphical programs
  to manage files (TkDesk), edit text (Nedit), read news (Knews),
  get email (Xfmail), transfer files (Xftp) and browse the Web
  (Mosaic) without excessive difficulty. Netscape Communications has
  also begun compiling Communicator and Navigator for MkLinux.
  Several games are also available, including one called XBill,
  where you try to stop a familiar-looking man from installing
  Windows on a bunch of computers. A basic source for MkLinux
  applications is the MkArchive.

<ftp://ftp.netscape.com/pub/communicator/4.04/development/english/
unix/mklinux/>
<ftp://ftp.dodds.net/pub/linux/mkarchive/>


**Conclusion** -- Working in X Windows brings you full circle,
  recreating the sort of interface for which you purchased your Mac
  in the first place, although it is quite different in look, feel,
  and capabilities. Building, improving, and maintaining an MkLinux
  machine is guaranteed to keep boredom at bay for some time. It's
  also nice knowing that there's more power with which to
  experiment, especially as Rhapsody nears completion. A major
  update, MkLinux DR3, is expected before the end of 1997, which
  promises better performance and more possibilities.


Focusing on Digital Cameras, Part 1: Higher Is Better
-----------------------------------------------------
  by Arthur H. Bleich <arthur@zim.com>

  There's nothing more thrilling than shooting pictures with a
  digital camera and then - with hardly any steps in between -
  seeing them splash onto your computer screen and flow smoothly
  into your image editing program. It's the same as watching the
  birth of a photographic print in a developer tray, or experiencing
  the chills that accompany unwinding still-wet negatives from a
  reel and holding them up to the light.

  Of course, if you need a reason other than "it sounds like fun" to
  have one of these new magic machines, consider the following
  advantages: instant images, no scanning, no film costs (which
  encourages creativity), and promoting a cleaner environment.
  There's also the historical significance of being among the first
  pioneers to venture into new photographic territory. Whatever your
  motivation, this article will acquaint you with the basics of
  digital photography.

  In this two-part series, I'll first discuss resolution and general
  issues such as light sensitivity that relate to using a digital
  camera. Next week, I'll cover specific issues to consider before
  purchasing a digital camera, and offer my opinion on the best
  cameras currently available in the low to middle price range. For
  now, begin your quest for the right digital camera by asking
  yourself how you'll use the pictures; those uses play heavily into
  what features you'll need from a camera.


**Resolution for the Screen** -- No discussion about digital
  cameras and imaging can avoid the subject of resolution. Many
  chapters have been written about resolution, but I'll try to make
  it as simple as possible. If you're not up to tech-talk now and
  want to skip the next few paragraphs, remember this: when
  discussing digital camera resolution, "Higher Is Better." Memorize
  that and you'll ace Resolution 101.

  Before we launch into screen dimensions and measurements, let's
  make sure we're all talking about the same thing. Images from
  digital cameras (and scanners) are made up of little squares
  (sometimes rectangles) called pixels. Pixel is short for "picture
  cell" or "picture element." Pixels also make up the images on a
  computer screen. Printers, in contrast, produce images by laying
  down many little dots on a piece of paper.

  Digital pictures and monitor screen images are measured in pixels-
  per-inch (ppi). Printer output is measured in dots-per-inch (dpi).
  Many people interchange the two abbreviations (especially when
  discussing scanning) which drives some purists insane. For
  clarity, it's best to use ppi and dpi as separate terms.

  If a digital camera records a picture that has 640 by 480 ppi, the
  camera's resolution is determined by old-fashioned multiplication:
  640 times 480 equals 307,200 pixels.

  Suppose your digital camera records pictures at a default
  measurement of 640 pixels wide by 480 pixels high. To figure out
  how big such an image will be on your computer monitor, a bit of
  division is required; for instance, on most Mac monitors, 72
  pixels in a row equals a linear inch. So to find out the length -
  in inches - of 640 pixels, just divide 72 into it and you get 8.8
  inches (about 22.4 cm). Do likewise with the short side of 480
  pixels, and you end up with 6.6 inches (about 16.8 cm).

  Given that 8.8 by 6.6 inches is a pretty good size, if you don't
  plan to print images, a 640 by 480 ppi resolution should work
  nicely. It even gives you a large enough image that you can remove
  unwanted elements and still have a good chunk left over for
  viewing.


**Resolution for Printing** -- However, if you want to print that
  photo on paper, things change drastically. You certainly can print
  that same 640 by 480 ppi picture as an 8.8 by 6.6 inch photo, but
  you may not be satisfied with the results. It depends on how fussy
  you are about picture quality. The picture might look fuzzy or
  have jagged edges - called pixelization, a phenomenon that occurs
  in low-resolution pictures when there aren't enough pixels to
  describe the range of color or detail in an image.

  As a quick fix, you can tell your imaging program to interpolate
  the image, that is, to add more pixels, thus increasing the ppi
  count. Interpolation adds more pixels in order to make the image
  look smoother, but the results are not always satisfactory because
  the program must guess where to insert extra pixels, what color
  they should be, and so on. To get the image quality you want, it's
  often necessary to reduce the image size; this pushes the existing
  pixels into a tighter fit, resulting in higher overall resolution
  and a more pleasing picture.

  Right about now you may be thinking: "My color ink-jet printer can
  give me all the resolution I need, because it can print at 720 dpi
  - it says so right in the manual." Well, yes, but what the manual
  _means_ is that the printer is capable of squirting a maximum of
  720 dots of ink per inch, with an average of three dots of ink
  assigned to print each pixel. (Remember, pixels and dots are not
  the same!)

  If you have a 640 by 480 ppi image whose size is 8.8 by 6.6
  inches, that image will have 72 pixels per inch and your printer
  will spit out about 216 ink dots per inch (3 dots of ink for each
  pixel multiplied by 72 pixels equals 216 dots of ink).

  Since you paid for 720 dpi and got only 216 dpi you might think a
  hefty refund is due. Not so fast. You can print that picture at
  720 dpi if it is reduced in size so its pixels scrunch together to
  line up 240 of them in an inch of space. Then, with each pixel
  getting 3 dots of ink, your printer would be outputting its full
  potential of 720 dpi. (Sorry, no refund.) In order to pack pixels
  in that tightly, the original 8.8 by 6.6 inch image must shrink to
  2.6 by 2.0 inches (6.6 by 5.1 cm), making it a great size to frame
  as a dollhouse painting.

  However, take heart. The 3:1 shrinkage ratio that we end up with
  is an extreme that may not be necessary. You can get fine pictures
  at 4.4 by 3.3 inches (by pushing the pixels together to 144 ppi),
  and even good 8.8 x 6.6 inch prints at their original 72 ppi. Of
  course, if you started with a higher camera resolution of 1,024 by
  768 ppi you'd get excellent 7.1 by 5.3 inch (18 by 13.5 cm) prints
  at 144 ppi. You can even get acceptable 14.2 by 10.6 inch (36.1 by
  26.9 cm) photos at 72 ppi if you're going to be looking at them
  from a short distance, since viewing distance has a lot to do with
  what an image looks like. For example, did you know outdoor
  billboard images are printed at only 18 dpi? They look great, but
  only at the right distance.

  What all this math boils down to is this: higher is better when it
  comes to digital cameras. Buy a camera with as high a resolution
  as you can afford if you want to make reasonably-sized prints.
  Most cameras offer a choice of high and low resolution modes, but
  chances are good you'll use the higher one most of the time.


**Higher Is Bigger, Too** -- Of course, the higher the resolution,
  the larger the file size - even though most images are compressed
  in the camera using JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group)
  encoding. At first, you'll probably want to save every gem you've
  shot, so expect your hard disk to fill up fast (another reason to
  buy a removable drive, with plenty of cartridges).

  Your file sizes will depend on the specific image and the degree
  of compression you choose (user selectable in many cameras).
  Figure that an uncompressed image will be roughly five to twenty
  times larger than its compressed size. A 640 by 480 ppi image
  compressed to 50K will inflate to about 900K when opened in an
  image editing program. A 1,024 by 768 ppi image compressed to 200K
  expands to 2.25 MB. And when you get to 1,280 by 1,024 ppi (the
  highest resolution in the $250 to $1,300 price range I'll be
  looking at) a 900K JPEG balloons to 3.75 MB.

  That's only the beginning. If you do any editing on images, you
  won't want to save them as JPEGs, because JPEG is a lossy
  compression method. This means that to reduce file size, some of
  the image information is lost; once gone, you can't get those
  pixels back without starting over from your original image (which
  you saved before doing any editing, right?). Instead, you'll
  likely save images as TIFFs (Tagged Image File Format, which can
  employ LZW lossless compression in some image editing programs) or
  as uncompressed PICTs. (For more information on image file formats
  and compression, see NetBITS-007_.)

<http://db.netbits.net/getbits.acgi?nbart=04458>


**Patience Is a Plus** -- Let's take a little breather here. I
  live with several cats and I'm always telling newlyweds to have
  cats before they have children (a biological impossibility, but
  you know what I mean). Cats teach you how to be patient and accept
  things on their terms. So will digital photography. If you love
  instant gratification, it will certainly provide you with that,
  but it will also teach you patience.

  The first time I transferred images from a digital camera through
  the Mac's serial port to my hard disk I was too excited to notice
  each one took about 30 seconds. Doesn't sound like much, but when
  you transfer 40 exposures, that's a minimum of 20 minutes. Plus,
  it takes still more time to rotate those vertical shots upright so
  you don't twist your neck out of shape.

  Then, once transferred, you must separate the good, the bad, and
  the ugly. So far, there's no easy way to do this. The "digital
  contact sheet" displayed prior to downloading isn't - as they say
  where I live - worth spit. The images are too small and you can't
  see detail. So, expect to end up transferring most of them. And
  when they're finally aboard, it's not easy to position them side-
  by-side onscreen without resizing them and fiddling even more.

  To help a little, there's a great freeware program called Jade 1.2
  that will let you drag & drop a folder of images onto its icon and
  bring the pictures up in various sizes - tiled or stacked. It
  can't yet turn those verticals right side up, alas.

<http://www.pdn-pix.com/pdntools.html>

  All this will change, of course. You'll eventually be able to
  transfer scores of images in a flash (literally) and software will
  eventually take care of positioning and selection. But for now,
  prepare to have your patience tested.


**Imaging Software** -- You'll need a photo imaging program to
  transfer and work with the images. Most camera manufacturers
  supply plug-ins to simplify this process. Adobe's cross-platform
  PhotoDeluxe is bundled with many cameras. I prefer PhotoFix, which
  is called PhotoStudio when it's bundled. It has 32 levels of fast
  undo-redo which cuts the learning curve to next to nothing, and
  makes it a snap to do traditional photographic darkroom stuff
  without spending a fortune on workshops and seminars. You can also
  opt for the big gun of photo-imaging, Adobe Photoshop, but for
  hobbyist digital camera owners, it's way too much power (and
  expense).

<http://www.adobe.com/prodindex/photodeluxe/main.html>
<http://www.microspot.com/>
<http://www.adobe.com/prodindex/photoshop/main.html>


**Light Sensitivity** -- Unlike conventional cameras where you can
  select films with different sensitivities to light, digital
  cameras in the under-$1,500 price range have only one fixed
  sensitivity to light, usually a film-equivalent ISO of 50 to 200.
  It's not a big limitation, though. Many of them take good pictures
  under low light conditions because their lens apertures are pretty
  fast, usually around f-2.8. As a standard feature, most have a
  built-in flash for abysmal conditions and for filling in deep
  shadows on sunlit, high-contrast subjects. And when it comes to
  freezing action, some even have shutter speeds up to 1/10,000 of a
  second!

  What you may find disconcerting at first is the slight lag time
  that occurs between pressing the shutter release and the actual
  exposure. That's when the camera spends a fraction of a second
  going through its pre-shot calibration and white-balancing act.
  There's also some delay between shots while the camera processes
  and compresses the image, and some people miss the whirring sound
  of film being advanced. You'll quickly adjust to these quirks,
  though.


**You've Come a Long Way** -- Civil War photographers like Brady
  and O'Sullivan had to sensitize their plates with poisonous
  solutions in a dark tent, then shoot their picture before the
  emulsion dried. That was a real hassle, but the thrill of the
  results made it worthwhile. You'll feel the same way once you get
  into digital photography, I guarantee (without handling poisons,
  even).

  Next week, I'll tell you what I consider to be the eight best
  digital cameras in the $250 to $1,300 price range.

  [Arthur H. Bleich has been a photographer, writer, filmmaker,
  musician, and teacher. He currently serves as the Executive
  Director of The Children's Telemedical Health Fund, which provides
  free medical and psychological care to needy kids through
  interactive television.]

<http://www.cthf.org/>


$$

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