TidBITS#574/02-Apr-01
=====================

  Been waiting to install Mac OS X? Be sure to read Rita Lewis's
  detailed article on installing Mac OS X first for essential
  advice. Also this week, Adam looks at using inexpensive FireWire
  hard disks for backup. In the news, Microsoft releases Office 2001
  for Mac Service Release 1, Outpost.com's shipping charges
  increase, and we encourage caution with Apple's recent firmware
  updates. Please note we're suffering a partial network outage!

Topics:
    MailBITS/02-Apr-01
    What About Backing Up to FireWire Hard Disks?
    Out of the Box: Installing Mac OS X

<http://www.tidbits.com/tb-issues/TidBITS-574.html>
<ftp://ftp.tidbits.com/issues/2001/TidBITS#574_02-Apr-01.etx>

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MailBITS/02-Apr-01
------------------

**Network Outage!** TidBITS Technical Editor Geoff Duncan has
  discovered a reliable method to block all spam: have your network
  service provider suddenly go dark. TidBITS services hosted at
  digital.forest are accessible, but everything at db.tidbits.com
  (including our article database, TidBITS Talk archive, and polls)
  will be offline until DNS updates propagate (hopefully by the time
  you read this). Even then, performance to db.tidbits.com services
  will be less than ideal, since my 56 Kbps frame relay Internet
  connection isn't the speediest and is already heavily used to
  distribute TidBITS Talk and most of our translations of TidBITS.
  We're working hard to avoid downtime, minimize performance
  degradation, and restore Geoff's connectivity, so please try to
  limit mail to essential issues. [ACE]


**Microsoft Updates Office 2001** -- Microsoft has released the
  Office 2001 for Mac Service Release 1, which updates the suite of
  applications for Mac OS 9.1 and Mac OS X compatibility,
  international language support, and other improvements. Word 2001
  now correctly saves documents in Word 4.0 format and fixes a rare
  problem caused when documents with numbers were saved in Rich Text
  Format (RTF) and then opened in Word for Windows. Excel 2001
  offers enhancements to the List Manager, printing, and when
  importing FileMaker data. PowerPoint 2001 better handles linked
  files and presentations created with PowerPoint for Windows, and
  improves the Save as Web Page feature. Entourage 2001 fixes a host
  of problems ranging from application crashes to rebuilding
  Entourage databases, along with better support for working with
  various SMTP and IMAP servers. The Service Release 1 is a free
  update, and is a 6.9 MB download. [JLC]

<http://www.microsoft.com/mac/download/office2001/sr1.asp>


**Avoid Current Firmware Updates** -- Apple's just-released
  firmware updates (4.1.7 and 4.1.8) for recent iMacs, plus the
  iBook, G4 Cube, Power Mac G4, and PowerBooks with FireWire ports
  have caused much gnashing of teeth. The firmware updates, which
  were released both on the Internet and on the Mac OS 9.1 CD-ROMs
  that come with Mac OS X, claim to make improvements to FireWire
  target disk mode, network booting, gigabit Ethernet networking,
  and overall stability. They also enable password protection of
  Open Firmware booting to increase the security of Mac OS X (which
  can protect its files via user privileges, but can't do so when
  booted from Mac OS 9). The significant problem with these firmware
  updates is that something in them can prevent the Mac from
  recognizing some RAM modules from third party vendors. Apple has
  yet to make an official statement about the situation. Our advice:
  don't install these firmware updates until there's word from
  Apple. [ACE]


**Outpost.com's Shipping Charges Increase Again** -- Just six
  weeks after mail-order vendor Outpost.com replaced its policy of
  free overnight shipping for all orders with one that offered free
  overnight shipping for orders totalling over $100, the company
  has again changed its approach (see "I Saw Free Ships..." in
  TidBITS-567_). Effective 28-Mar-01, the company's new shipping
  policy offers free (actually up to $100 in shipping charges)
  second day delivery via Airborne Express for orders totalling
  over $500 (excluding sales tax). Other orders may be shipped
  via Airborne Express second day for a flat fee of $8.95, or
  customers may choose overnight delivery for a $12.95 flat fee.
  Orders placed before 28-Mar-01 but not shipped until afterward
  due to inventory back order or pre-order status will not be
  affected by the change in shipping policy. The company cites
  recent increases in fuel costs, which have impacted all air
  and ground delivery costs, as the primary reason for the
  change. [MHA]

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=06299>
<http://www.outpost.com/help/29485/>


**April Fools Day Apologies** -- My apologies to everyone we
  suckered with the fake update posted on Sunday to our Web site
  about how rolling blackouts in California and the associated
  cut-overs from the power grid to generators at Apple's data
  centers were causing Mac OS X to kernel panic if it accessed a
  mounted iDisk in a specific fashion. I particularly enjoyed the
  subsequent and rather technical discussion of the "problem" on
  TidBITS Talk. That said, my experience causing Mac OS X to kernel
  panic while using iDisk and relaunching the Finder (to try to get
  out of an accidental mounting of the iTunes disk image from my
  iDisk) was real. And on a more serious note, the fact that such a
  fabricated report was so believable shows just how large of an
  unknown space we're entering with Mac OS X. [ACE]

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=06374>


What About Backing Up to FireWire Hard Disks?
---------------------------------------------
  by Adam C. Engst <ace@tidbits.com>

  Never let it be said that I'm not open to new ideas. After my
  recent review of Ecrix's VXA-1 tape drive, a number of people
  asked why you couldn't just use hard disks for backup.

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=06322>
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tlkthrd=1309>

  I quickly responded with all the reasons that hard disks are a
  fairly poor option as a sole backup solution. To wit:

* Cost: Hard disks are much more expensive than tapes.

* Redundancy: A single backup isn't sufficient for a good backup
  strategy.

* Archiving: It's easy to make an identical copy of a hard disk,
  but doing so loses the benefits of archived data.

* Single Use: It's tempting to use a backup hard disk for storing
  original data occasionally, putting backed up data at risk.

* Convenience: It's much harder to connect and disconnect hard
  disks than to insert and remove tapes.

* Transportability: It's harder to take hard disks to another site
  for protection against burglars, fire, or even earthquakes (not
  that we _ever_ have those in Seattle).

  But as the discussion progressed, I became convinced that hard
  disks can be used in a coherent backup strategy, thanks to the
  rise of cheap, large, FireWire hard disks. The dealmac Web site
  recently found an 80 GB FireWire hard disk at MadLogix for $335.
  At that price you could buy three hard disks for about $1,000,
  which is a good bit less than the roughly $1,500 you'd pay for a
  VXA-1 tape drive, its bundled 33 GB tape, plus 11 20 GB tapes (for
  a three backup set solution of comparable capacity). Even if I
  personally wouldn't be comfortable buying from the vendor with the
  absolute cheapest price, inexpensive FireWire hard disks are also
  available from TidBITS sponsors APS Tech and Small Dog
  Electronics, along with ElectricDeal.com, a new company run by
  some old friends with a long history in the storage business.

<http://dealmac.com/articles/21473.html>
<http://www.apstech.com/prod/index.cfm?cat=1>
<http://www.smalldog.com/>
<http://www.electricdeal.com/category.cfm?Category=24>

  An even more convenient approach might be to use removable
  FireWire hard disks in a bay. For instance, Granite Digital sells
  kit parts for trays into which you can install inexpensive IDE
  hard disks; you can then slot these trays into frames that fit
  into 5.25" half-height drive bays in an external enclosure. (Click
  the Hot-Swap Bays link in Granite Digital's Web catalog). On the
  downside, the price of such a solution would probably be slightly
  more expensive than buying three stand-alone hard disks, and if
  the power supply in your external enclosure failed, all the hard
  disks would be inaccessible.

<http://www.scsipro.com/catalog/>


**Answering the Criticisms** -- Anyway, in this sample situation,
  for $500 less, you end up with much faster backup media with no
  need to swap among four tapes. And once you eliminate the price
  differential between hard disks and tape systems, many of the
  other criticisms of hard disk backup systems fall away. Working
  through the list above:

* Redundancy: When hard disks are as cheap as they are now, you
  can afford to purchase several to support a multiple backup set
  strategy. That's necessary for a good backup strategy, since it's
  all too easy for calamity to befall a single backup.

* Archiving: Although a distinct psychological barrier remains
  when thinking about hard disks as write-once media, you should
  treat them as such for archiving purposes. Alternatively,
  occasional CD-R backups could also meet your archiving needs. You
  could even combine the two by using the hard disks for daily
  incremental backups, then using Retrospect's transfer function to
  move the archive to a stack of CD-Rs (you'd need about 120 CD-Rs
  for this, which would cost about $60 and take quite some time to
  burn). It remains important to use a real backup program like
  Retrospect or Retrospect Express that backs up multiple versions
  of files, rather than a souped-up copy utility that duplicates
  your original hard disk. Identical copy backups don't protect
  against corruption creeping into files, such as the databases used
  by many email programs. (This really happens, as was discussed at
  length in TidBITS Talk recently.)

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tlkthrd=1313>

* Single Use: Nothing prevents you from using one of your backup
  hard disks for occasional storage of original data, but it's a
  terrible idea to put your backups at risk like that. I recommend
  labelling the cases of the backup hard disks clearly to remind you
  of their purpose.

* Convenience: FireWire hard disks are simple to connect to and
  disconnect from your Mac, which eliminates one of the barriers to
  using older SCSI hard disks for backups in the past. It's
  important to minimize hassle in a backup strategy, since the more
  hassle there is, the less likely you are to back up regularly.

* Transportability: Having multiple backup sets enables you to
  rotate one backup hard disk offsite at all times, something that
  wasn't financially feasible before. Hard disks are larger than
  tapes, but that's mostly a problem if you use a small safe-deposit
  box for offsite storage.

  Hard disks still don't compete against tape solutions if you have
  to back up a great deal of data (hundreds of gigabytes) to
  multiple backup sets (the more sets, the more tape makes sense).
  You'll have to run the cost per gigabyte comparisons for your
  situation yourself, but the difference between a $335 hard disk
  and $180 worth of tapes will eventually eliminate the up-front
  cost of the tape drive.

  There are two also limitations in the current version of
  Retrospect that could come into play. First, to back up to a hard
  disk, Retrospect requires you to use a Macintosh File backup set,
  which means your backup can't span multiple hard disks. Second and
  more problematic is a limitation with how Retrospect stores its
  catalog files for Macintosh File backup sets. Retrospect stores
  the catalog data (the table of contents of the backup) in the
  file's resource fork, and Mac OS 9 and the HFS+ disk format don't
  support resource forks over 16 MB. The catalog size is related to
  the number of files backed up (not the amount of data), and
  creates a limit of between 75,000 and 95,000 files. As a
  workaround, you could create another Macintosh File backup set on
  the same hard disk when the first one fills up, and continue doing
  so until the hard disk itself fills up, after which you must
  decide what to archive permanently and what to use again. Dantz
  will undoubtedly address these concerns in a future version of
  Retrospect.

  Realistically, though, installations with massive backup needs
  already have serious backup strategies and hardware already in
  place. (And if they don't, they're fools.) The comparison between
  tapes and cheap FireWire hard disks as backup media works best in
  situations with small to moderate amounts of data to back up. If
  you fall into that category and aren't happy with your backup
  strategy currently, take a look at the option of multiple FireWire
  hard disks.


Out of the Box: Installing Mac OS X
-----------------------------------
  by Rita Lewis <ritalewis@megapathdsl.net>

  You've heard plenty online about Mac OS X from those who installed
  the Public Beta and those who took the jump before this. But now
  you've received your shiny white box with the big X, and after
  reading last week's article about Mac OS X, you're ready to
  install Apple's new operating system. My goal here is to help you
  install and set up Mac OS X in as painless a manner as possible.
  The process is a bit like Mac OS X itself - simple on the surface,
  but complex under the hood, as you can tell if you read through
  the TidBITS Talk threads related to installation.

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=06372>
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tlkthrd=1327+1332>


**System Recommendations** -- Officially, Apple says you need an
  original PowerPC G3 or G4-based Macintosh (other than the original
  PowerBook G3) with at least 128 MB RAM and 1.5 GB of hard disk
  space. As usual with new operating systems, the more processing
  power and memory you have, the better it operates. That's how
  Apple sells new hardware, right? Personally, I'm running Mac OS X
  on a 400 MHz iMac DV SE with 256 MB of RAM. I've also installed it
  with no problems on my 366 MHz Indigo iBook with 198 MB of RAM.

  I wouldn't recommend running Mac OS X on non-Apple computers, but
  several Unix-experienced friends have reported success using Power
  Computing clones with PowerPC G3 upgrade cards, and others have
  managed to hack Mac OS X into running on Macs whose CPUs predate
  the PowerPC G3 as well.

<http://homepage.mac.com/RyanRempel/OldWorld/Instructions.html>

  As far as RAM goes, 128 MB of RAM is a realistic minimum. You
  might theoretically get away with less if you're not using Classic
  applications, since Mac OS X manages its virtual memory
  efficiently. But how many people won't be using Mac OS X's Classic
  mode at least some of the time? Since Classic puts the entire Mac
  OS 9.1 operating system in RAM when loading, Mac OS X needs at
  least 64 MB just for Classic. Initial reports indicate that memory
  beyond 128 MB improves performance.

  Mac OS X itself requires about 1.1 GB of hard disk space for a
  default installation (you can opt out of installing extra printer
  drivers and the BSD subsystem, each of which take about 80 MB),
  which it spreads across many thousands of files and folders. I
  assume Mac OS X requires the rest of the disk space for virtual
  memory swap space. Welcome to the wonderful world of Unix, and as
  you can tell, hard disk speed and possibly fragmentation level
  will play a part in overall performance, since Mac OS X will be
  hitting the disk constantly.


**Advice for Testers** -- Before I delve into the basics of a safe
  installation process, let me make a few points for those who have
  tried one of the earlier releases. I have now installed every
  version of Mac OS X from Developer's Preview 1 to the official
  release, and I've come up with the following pieces of advice.

  If you installed any version of Mac OS X prior to the Public Beta
  on a hard disk partition, you probably have a corrupted partition
  and should run the latest version of Norton Disk Doctor or
  Micromat's TechTool Pro and try to repair it. If these programs
  can't fix the damage, you must back up and reinitialize your hard
  disk, then restore from your backup. Frankly, that might be safest
  anyway.

<http://www.micromat.com/>
<http://www.symantec.com/nu/nu_mac/>

  Although Mac OS X will install over the Public Beta, the process
  is much slower than installing from scratch because the installer
  has to work hard to figure out which of the many thousands of
  files have changed. Also, there have been reports of performance
  problems and other weird behaviors from such an approach. Although
  installing over the Public Beta retains all your settings (not a
  big deal unless you used it heavily), you won't get some new
  stuff. For instance, on an iBook, if you install over the Public
  Beta, you won't get the battery monitor in the Dock by default, as
  you do after doing a clean install.


**Preparing for Mac OS X** -- Now, for everyone else... Unless you
  are installing on a Mac containing no useful data, the first thing
  you should do is back up _everything_ (not just important data) to
  a location from which you can restore easily. Despite the
  similarities in the way you use it, Mac OS X is a vastly different
  environment from any previous version of the Mac OS, and although
  you should not lose data, it is possible. Be smart and back up.

  The next step is to decide whether you want to install Mac OS X on
  the same partition as your existing copy of the Mac OS, or if
  you'd prefer to separate the two by partitioning your hard disk
  and installing Mac OS X on a different partition. I've seen no
  difference in the safety of data, but it's easier to customize or
  even get rid of a Mac OS X installation entirely if you've
  dedicated a partition to it. Of course, if you have working data
  on your hard disk, you'll need that backup to restore your data
  after reformatting and partitioning with Apple's Drive Setup
  utility.

  If you're not running Mac OS 9.1 currently, you'll need to install
  it before installing Mac OS X, and it's generally easiest to find,
  download, and install any necessary updates to the programs you
  use while you're in a familiar environment. I recommend starting
  with the newest versions of your programs when upgrading versions
  of the operating system because it saves you grief in the long
  run. Otherwise, you might have crashes from, for instance, an old
  extension that isn't compatible with the new operating system, and
  you don't want to see crashes as soon as you've finished
  installation. One additional suggestion - if you see a Mac OS X
  version of a program while downloading an update, snag the Mac OS
  X version at the same time. You'll want it eventually, and again,
  it's easier to work in your familiar environment right now.

  VersionTracker is the first place to look for and download
  updates. If you don't mind spending some money, you could purchase
  either Insider Software's $70 UpgradeAgent 8 (it also runs under
  Mac OS X as Upgrade Agent X) or Casady and Greene's $40 Chaos
  Master (which uses VersionTracker to compare versions). These
  programs scour your hard disk and return a list of applications
  that have updates available. Then it is just a matter of spending
  hours downloading patches and running their installers.

<http://www.versiontracker.com/>
<http://www.insidersoftware.com/>
<http://www.casadyg.com/products/chaosmaster/>

  Still assuming that you're not already running Mac OS 9.1, you'll
  need to install it next. Apple has made it easy by including a Mac
  OS 9.1 CD-ROM in the box with Mac OS X. (Note, however, that
  PowerBook G4, Power Mac G4 (Digital Audio) and iMac (Early 2001)
  machines that come pre-installed with Mac OS 9.1 cannot boot from
  the Mac OS 9.1 CD included with Mac OS X.) There are a few
  interesting changes in Mac OS 9.1, but the two that affect you the
  most with Mac OS X are the way it rearranges your folder structure
  (the Applications folder becomes "Applications (Mac OS 9)" and the
  Internet, Utilities, and Apple Extras folders move inside it) and
  the new Startup Disk control panel that enables you to switch
  between Mac OS 9.1 and Mac OS X. It's a good idea to move all your
  custom Mac OS 9 folders inside Apple's default folder hierarchy to
  avoid file permissions problems. The top level of your hard disk
  should thus contain only Applications (Mac OS 9), Documents, and
  System Folder. Also, be sure to run the Software Update control
  panel to check for any recent updates, such as the essential
  Startup Disk 9.2.1 control panel Apple released last week.

<http://asu.info.apple.com/swupdates.nsf/artnum/n12078>

  Also noteworthy, on the Mac OS 9.1 CD-ROM in the CD Extras folder,
  there are a number of firmware updaters for the blue & white Power
  Mac G3, the iMac, the iBook, the Power Mac G4, and the PowerBook
  (FireWire). Apple recommends using these firmware updates, but if
  you have third party RAM in your Mac, the potential of having that
  RAM disabled outweighs the benefits, so hold off on those until
  Apple addresses the problems.

  At this point, you should have Mac OS 9.1 running, with all of
  your extensions and control panels. They're some of the most
  likely things to break under Mac OS X's Classic mode, so shut them
  all off by using Extensions Manager to switch to a Mac OS 9.1 All
  set of extensions. Those should work under Mac OS X, and once
  you're in Mac OS X's Classic mode, you can create a set which
  contains just the Mac OS 9.1 extensions and control panels you
  need, and to which you can slowly add your third-party extensions.
  (Casady & Greene's Conflict Catcher 8.0.8 knows about Mac OS 9.1
  and can even switch between extension sets depending on whether
  you're in Mac OS 9.1 or in Classic under Mac OS X, but a bug means
  you have to enter your registration information in Classic each
  time if you're using a single-partition approach.)

<http://til.info.apple.com/techinfo.nsf/artnum/n106149>

  One last thing. Although you should do so before installing any
  software, be sure to read the READ BEFORE YOU INSTALL.pdf file
  located on the Mac OS X CD-ROM for information about things you
  might want to do before installation (especially with beige Power
  Mac G3 and the PowerBook G3 Series machines with large partitioned
  hard disks). If you launch right into the installer and read this
  info at the start of the installation process, you won't be able
  to back out without restarting the Mac.

  Phew! You are now ready to install Mac OS X itself. Luckily,
  that's much easier than all the preparation.


**Setup and Installation** -- The actual process of installation
  is almost trivially easy, although it can take some time (half an
  hour or more). You can start the installation while booted into
  Mac OS 9.1, though the installer immediately reboots from the Mac
  OS X CD-ROM; or, you can just boot from the Mac OS X CD-ROM
  directly by holding down the C key during startup. Apple
  recommends the latter as a troubleshooting approach should the
  initial attempt fail for some reason.

  At the initial startup, Mac OS X provides you with a new version
  of the Setup Assistant that Apple has used for years. Each screen
  of the Setup Assistant asks for different information, such as
  your time zone, your localization requirements (language and
  keyboard), and so forth.

  The Setup Assistant also walks you through creating your user
  account - remember, Mac OS X is inherently a multiple user system
  - and in the User Account pane, you must enter a long name (for
  File Sharing purposes) as well as a short name (but not "root" or,
  possibly "wheel", both of which are special accounts in Unix) and
  password. Write these down on paper and store them in a secure
  location! The short name and password are very important because
  they give you authority to change important preferences and set up
  how other users can access your Mac. Luckily, Mac OS X makes this
  account an administrator-level account (so you can set up and
  manage preferences and access) and defaults to an automatic login,
  so you don't have to enter a password on every restart.

  In previous versions of the Mac OS, a separate Internet Setup
  Assistant helped you configure your Mac for use on the Internet.
  In Mac OS X, the main Setup Assistant does this as well, so make
  sure you know your email address, mail server addresses, DNS
  addresses, modem access numbers, passwords, and so on. One
  departure from the previous Internet Setup Assistant is that Mac
  OS X's Setup Assistant asks you for your iTools account (and lets
  you sign up for one if you haven't already). This is worthwhile -
  access to your iDisk is built into the Mac OS X Finder in the Go
  menu, and Apple is already making software like iTunes and iMovie
  available via iDisk.


**Switching Back and Forth** -- The details of using Mac OS X are
  beyond the scope of this article (and of course, if you've bought
  into Apple's rhetoric, Mac OS X is utterly intuitive, right?), but
  there is one important task you need to know how to perform - how
  to switch back to Mac OS 9.1. If you're like almost everyone else,
  you'll need to do that on occasion when you run into software that
  doesn't work in Mac OS X's Classic mode. And, if you've installed
  the new operating system on your primary Mac, you may find that
  working in Mac OS 9.1 is necessary to get your work done
  efficiently.

  To switch from Mac OS X back to Mac OS 9.1, choose System
  Preferences from the Apple menu (or click its icon in the Dock).
  Click the Startup Disk icon in either the toolbar (Apple set it as
  one of the favorites that appears there no matter what other
  control panel you're using) or in the collection of control panels
  below. You'll see a list of System Folders that can boot your Mac
  (at least one for Mac OS X and one for Mac OS 9.1, and possibly
  more, depending on your setup). Select one with Mac OS 9, and then
  choose Restart from the Apple menu to restart the Mac.

  When the Mac reboots, you'll notice that some new files and
  folders have appeared at the top level of your hard disk (assuming
  you installed on a single partition). Along with the Mac OS 9.1
  System Folder, Documents, and Applications (Mac OS 9) folders,
  you'll see a new Applications folder that holds Mac OS X
  applications, a System folder that contains much of the guts of
  Mac OS X, a Users folder that holds folders and sub-folders for
  each user, and a Library folder that contains folders for shared
  files like fonts. Also at the top level are two files - mach and
  mach.sym - that are part of Mac OS X and are invisible when you're
  in Mac OS X.

  Feel free to explore the new Mac OS X folders while in Mac OS 9.1
  - you'll probably find navigating in the familiar Mac OS 9.1
  Finder to be much faster and more fluid. However, do _not_ move or
  delete anything! In previous versions of the Mac OS, there were a
  few files that were dangerous to move, such as the System and
  Finder and any enablers or Mac OS ROM files, but short of those,
  you couldn't do much serious damage. That's totally not true of
  Mac OS X - move or delete the wrong file while in Mac OS 9.1 and
  the whole thing may cease to work. Worse, there aren't yet many
  people out there who will be able to help).

  Plus, Mac OS X uses many more invisible files and folders, which
  means that if you end up with a bad installation for some reason
  and want to erase it, just deleting visible Mac OS X files and
  folders while in Mac OS 9.1 won't completely uninstall Mac OS X.
  First, make sure to switch to Mac OS 9.1 in the Startup Disk
  control panel (this is important), reboot, and then start deleting
  things, including all those invisible files and folders (utilities
  like DiskTop and Greg's Browser can display and manipulate
  invisible files and folders). This is the point at which having
  Mac OS X on its own partition would save some time and
  uncertainty, since you could just choose Erase Disk from the
  Finder's Special menu.

<http://www.prgrsoft.com/pages/disktop.html>
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=05843>
<http://www.kaleidoscope.net/greg/browser.html>

  When you're finished in Mac OS 9.1 and ready to return to Mac OS
  X, just open the Startup Disk control panel in Mac OS 9.1, click
  the disclosure triangle to reveal the different valid operating
  systems, choose the Mac OS X System folder, and click the Restart
  button. A few minutes later, you'll be back in the watery
  wonderland of Mac OS X.


**Go West, Young Mac** -- Where to go from here? I'd encourage you
  to explore Mac OS X on your own first - there's nothing like
  personal experience to help you make up your own mind what you
  think about Apple's efforts at redesigning the Macintosh
  interface. For additional tips, opinions, and a moderated forum
  for asking questions, subscribe to TidBITS Talk (send an email
  message to <tidbits-talk-on@tidbits.com>), where the Mac OS X
  discussions have been going strong. And of course, I'm sure
  additional articles about Mac OS X will be forthcoming in TidBITS
  over the next few months.

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tlkthrd=active>


  [Rita Lewis is the author of over 20 Macintosh books, including
  the best-selling Mac OS in a Nutshell from O'Reilly.]

<http://www.lewiswrite.com/>

$$

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