TidBITS#616/11-Feb-02
=====================

  Digital cameras rock, but many of us have always wondered about
  the best way to get prints. Wonder no more, as Alex Hoffman
  compares online photo printing services. If you want moving
  pictures, turn to Jeff Carlson's advice on shooting video and
  editing it in iMovie. In the news, Microsoft releases a security
  patch for Office X, Apple both wins a technical Grammy and pulls
  out of Circuit City, and CS Odessa hosts a ConceptDraw conference
  in the Ukraine.

Topics:
    MailBITS/11-Feb-02
    Making Better iMovies
    Printing Digital Photos, Part 1

<http://www.tidbits.com/tb-issues/TidBITS-616.html>
<ftp://ftp.tidbits.com/issues/2002/TidBITS#616_11-Feb-02.etx>

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MailBITS/11-Feb-02
------------------

**Patch Office X for Network Vulnerability** -- Microsoft has
  released a Network Security Updater for Microsoft Office X that
  eliminates a network vulnerability made possible by a flaw in the
  application suite's network-aware anti-piracy mechanism. Office X
  checks to make sure that every copy running on the network is
  using a unique product identifier (PID); if an Office application
  detects a duplicate, it shuts down. As discovered by Marty Schoch,
  the problem is that the checking code doesn't correctly handle a
  malformed PID announcement, causing the first Office application
  launched to crash, with the possible loss of data. So although
  someone could cause Office applications to crash by sending
  malformed PID announcements, there is no possibility that data
  could be created, deleted, or modified. For full details, see
  Microsoft Security Bulletin MS01-002. [ACE]

<http://www.microsoft.com/mac/DOWNLOAD/OFFICEX/NetworkUpdater.asp>
<http://www.microsoft.com/mac/officex/>
<http://www.microsoft.com/technet/security/bulletin/MS02-002.asp>


**Apple Receives Technical Grammy** -- For many people, the Grammy
  awards are an annual event wherein the music recording industry
  congratulates itself for selling lots of albums, and shamelessly
  uses the occasion to sell a few more albums by putting some hot-
  selling acts and half-naked celebrities on prime time television.
  Beginning in 1994, however, the Recording Academy began awarding
  technical Grammys for individuals and companies which have made
  "contributions of outstanding technical significance to the
  recording field." Past winners include Les Paul (a pioneer of the
  electric guitar and multitrack recording), Ray Dolby (noise
  reduction technology), Digidesign (high-end digital recording
  tools), and George Massenburg (parametric EQ, mix automation, and
  other production tools).

  This year's technical Grammys will go to Robert Moog and Apple
  Computer. Bob Moog was an early developer of analog synthesizers
  whose instruments brought electronic music into the mainstream
  beginning in the late 1960s, while Apple is being praised for
  playing a leading role bringing computer technology into the
  process of writing, producing, and recording music. Although
  Windows-based PCs have made some inroads in the last few years,
  professional audio is one of those niche markets where Apple sells
  a lot of high-end hardware, and since the late 1980s Macs have
  led the way in professional and semi-professional computer-based
  recording (often in combination with hardware from companies
  like Mark of the Unicorn and/or Digidesign). It's nice to see
  the industry acknowledge that Apple's systems and inventiveness
  continue to play such an important role, although that merely adds
  to the irony of the record labels' online music services not being
  compatible with the Mac. [GD]

<http://www.grammy.com/news/academy/020131tech.html>
<http://www.bigbriar.com/>
<http://www.digidesign.com/>
<http://www.motu.com/>


**Blink And You Missed It** -- Apple quietly announced last week
  it will no longer sell Macs or Apple merchandise through Circuit
  City. Apple had recently returned to Circuit City only in mid-
  2000, following a 1998 pull-out from Circuit City, Sears, Best
  Buy, Office Max, and other high-profile technology retailers
  which had failed to showcase (or even properly set up) Apple
  merchandise. (Apple pulled of Sears again in March 2001.)
  Neither Apple nor Circuit City gave reasons for the current
  disassociation, but Apple has been hinting for some time it
  hasn't been happy with all its channel partners, and would be
  making changes both to promote its own retail storefronts and
  support the CompUSA "store within a store" concept. [GD]

<http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/cn/20020209/tc_cn/
apple_short_circuits_circuit_city_deal/>
<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=06044>


**ConceptDraw World Conference 2002** -- We don't normally mention
  conferences in advance, mostly because there are so many of them
  and they're all so similar. But CS Odessa's upcoming ConceptDraw
  World Conference tickled our fancy because of the fascinating
  choice of venue - they're holding it in Odessa on the Black Sea in
  the Ukraine from 28-Mar-02 through 30-Mar-02. There's no question
  the trip is a bit of a haul from the U.S. (less so from Europe, of
  course), so the conference includes plenty of time for sightseeing
  and parties. The weather is supposed to be pretty good around that
  time of year, and a few days after the conference, on April 1st,
  the city bans cars from downtown and has a huge April Fools Day
  parade that draws half a million people. CS Odessa was the first
  company from that part of the world to exhibit at Macworld Expo
  back in 2001; serious ConceptDraw users who want to repay the
  visit and learn more about ConceptDraw should take a look. [ACE]

<http://www.conceptdraw.com/conference/>


Making Better iMovies
---------------------
  by Jeff Carlson <jeffc@tidbits.com>

  If you wanted to edit video in the recent past, you needed a room
  full of specialized equipment and a fair amount of training and
  experience just to get started. Now, most what you need is
  probably sitting in your Applications folder. Apple's iMovie
  enables anyone with a recent Macintosh to import video footage
  and edit it into a professional-looking movie.

  In "Dipping into Digital Video" in TidBITS-615_, I covered some of
  the basics of digital video and what to look for when buying a
  digital camcorder. Now I want to share some tips I picked up while
  writing my latest book, iMovie 2 for Macintosh: Visual QuickStart
  Guide. If you're just starting to get your feet wet with digital
  video, these pointers will help you during shooting and when
  editing in iMovie.

<http://db.tidbits.com/getbits.acgi?tbart=06709>
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0201787881/tidbitselectro00A/>


**A Stable Working Relationship** -- Most people equate home video
  footage with the jittery movement of home movies and police
  pursuit shows. Except in rare circumstances, that look isn't a
  matter of style: the diminutive size and weight of most camcorders
  make it difficult to maintain stability while filming. Mounting
  the camera on a tripod is your best bet for keeping the camera
  stationary, but a tripod is often a pain to carry and set up.
  Instead, maintain stability when shooting by tucking your elbows
  into your sides and hold the camera with both hands. Although most
  cameras offer digital image stabilization, which does a good job
  of compensating for small variations in camera movement, don't
  rely on it to reduce larger tremors.


**Zoom Zoom** -- One of the first things potential camcorder
  buyers do is test the product's zoom capabilities. And why not?
  Unlike Hollywood movie directors, who can place a camera wherever
  it suits them, you may be trying to get a shot of a grizzly bear
  from hundreds of meters away (and, in the spirit of
  recommendations, I strongly encourage you to stay hundreds of
  meters away from grizzlies in the wild). Punching up the telephoto
  zoom can be the difference between fur, blur, or getting munched,
  for those that ignore these tips.

  As you're zooming, try to keep the motion steady and measured. The
  zoom control on most camcorders is pressure sensitive, so pressing
  hard makes the lens zoom quicker than a lighter touch. Try not to
  zoom in or out (or heaven forbid, both in succession) as fast as
  possible, unless you're trying to nauseate your audience. If you
  have the opportunity, practice zooming in on your subject before
  you begin filming.

  Also, turn off your camcorder's digital zoom feature. Unlike
  optical zoom, which describes the amount the lens mechanism can
  zoom (usually 10 times the normal setting), digital zoom is a
  technique where the camera's processor interpolates the image and
  enlarges the pixels to approximate a higher zoom level. In
  essence, the camera guesses what the higher zoomed-in image will
  look like, and it shows: digitally zoomed footage is highly
  pixelated, and it's often hard to tell what was originally being
  shot. Although a 200x digital zoom sounds nifty, it's more
  marketing gimmick than filmmaker's tool. Turn if off now while
  you're thinking about it, so you don't scold yourself later when
  reviewing unexpectedly blurry footage.


**Do You Hear What You Hear?** As you're recording, use headphones
  plugged into to your camera to ensure that the audio you're
  capturing is the sound you expect. Any pair of headphones will do,
  as long as what you hear is what the camera's microphone hears.
  You won't want to begin editing your footage and realize that
  traffic noise drowned out the rest of your footage's audio.


**Cover Your Assets** -- When you get to the editing stage, you'll
  want to assemble a tight movie, with no scenes that can make your
  audience lose interest. However, when you're out shooting, record
  plenty of extra coverage. Linger at the end of scenes, and don't
  stop recording when the action ends. Take a few minutes to shoot
  the scenery, the reactions of people around you, or objects that
  catch your eye but may have nothing to do with the subject of your
  video. You want to go into the editing stage with more than enough
  footage to work with, because in most cases you won't be able to
  go back and reshoot something. That extra coverage can be
  essential when you need to add a few seconds of footage to
  maintain your movie's timing and rhythm.


**Dumpster Diving in iMovie** -- With the shooting complete, it's
  time to import your footage and begin cutting together your movie.
  As you begin to chop, crop, and rearrange your clips, it can
  become difficult to know which sections were once whole in case
  you want to go back and try a different combination of clips.
  Fortunately, iMovie offers a few methods to retrieve footage.
  First, you'll find yourself using iMovie's ten levels of undo
  often, though remember that the counter resets when you close your
  iMovie project.

  If you can't undo changes, you may still be able to restore an
  original clip. As you make edits, iMovie records only the changes
  that have been applied to the original clip you imported from the
  camcorder - it doesn't actually split the clip's media file on
  your hard disk. For example, suppose you imported a 10-minute
  original clip from your camera and split it into a number of
  smaller clips. Now suppose you deleted one of those smaller clips,
  not realizing until too late that you needed it. Unlike the
  Finder's Trash, you can't open iMovie's bin and pull out a
  discarded clip. Rather than reimport from the camera, select
  another one of the smaller clips and choose Restore Clip Media
  from the Advanced menu - iMovie reads the entire 10 minutes of
  data from the media file on the hard disk and turns that small
  clip into the full clip, which you can edit down to the necessary
  footage again. Be warned that if you use the Empty Trash command
  at any point, the clip is gone for good - iMovie edits the media
  file on your hard disk and removes the portions you threw away.


**Transitions** -- Leave enough padding in your clips to
  accommodate transitions. A transition such as Cross Dissolve
  overlaps portions of the two clips it's bridging in order to
  display both simultaneously. If the action begins immediately in
  the second clip, it will be partially obscured by the dissolving
  portion of the first clip. Leaving a few seconds of neutral
  footage gives you the transition effect you're looking for without
  disrupting the content of the scene. If you end up with too much
  padding, you can always trim it out later.

  Speaking of transitions, don't go crazy adding every type of
  transition you can find (and there are plenty - in addition to
  Apple's, check out GeeThree's Slick Transitions and Effects). In
  most situations, you'll probably use Cross Dissolve, Fade In, Fade
  Out, and Overlap. Although others can be appropriate in context,
  using too many different flashy transitions in one project tends
  to distract from the movie itself. It's the same principle as
  using too many fonts in a word processing document: with more than
  a few on the page, it no longer matters what the words say.

<http://geethree.com/p_slickboth.html>


**Sizing Up Titles** -- From an ease-of-use standpoint, the slider
  that determines a title's font size is wonderfully simple: slide
  left to reduce the size, slide right to increase the size.
  However, this approach can be maddeningly frustrating if you want
  precision. It doesn't make it any easier that the longer your
  title, the smaller the text will appear, even at the largest font
  size. Also, iMovie's rough title preview can be deceptive about
  text sizes and where longer phrases are wrapped to the next line.
  So, apply your titles to a few dummy clips that you can export
  back to tape and preview on a television to see exactly how the
  title will appear.


**Using Music Tracks** -- iMovie features what must have once
  seemed like an ingenious method of adding music to your movie: you
  can record song tracks from an audio CD directly into the program.
  You must start playing the song and record it as it plays, much
  the way you import video from your camcorder's videotape. However,
  with MP3 music files and iTunes, this technique has become
  archaic. Instead, use iTunes to extract music as MP3 files, then
  use iMovie's Import command to add the song to your movie. If you
  want the highest quality audio (which takes up significantly more
  disk space), use iTunes to extract the song in AIFF format; that's
  how iMovie's built-in audio recorder stores music, but iTunes
  provides a far superior interface to getting it done.


**The iMovie Effect** -- Once you start editing in iMovie, you'll
  never watch movies or television the same again. You see scenes
  in terms of shots, angles, lighting, audio effects, and visual
  narrative. My wife, after using iMovie only a few times, proved
  this to me when we watched the online trailer for the movie The
  Man Who Wasn't There. It's a great work of editing, but I didn't
  realize how good until Kim casually pointed out that each shot
  ended in a cross-dissolve transition, except when the main
  characters were on screen, which used jump cuts to show another
  shot of the actor before dissolving. If that doesn't demonstrate
  how iMovie's ease of use and editing power can get into your
  brain, I don't know what can.

<http://www.themanwhowasntthere.com/trailer.htm>


Printing Digital Photos, Part 1
-------------------------------
  by Alex Hoffman <ceolaf@email.com>

  I recently bought a new Nikon Coolpix 775 digital camera for my
  wife. We were about to get married and I thought we'd enjoy taking
  lots of pictures of the wedding weekend and the honeymoon week.
  I was right: we took more than 1,000 pictures over nine days.

<http://www.nikonusa.com/coolpix775/>

  Although I'm most interested in putting together a CD showing off
  most of our pictures (hundreds, I tell you) for our guests and
  friends, my wife prefers old-fashioned photo albums and wants to
  print some of the pictures.

  This situation prompted the question of the best way to print
  digital photos. While we might want to print only 50 to 100
  pictures now, eventually we'll have many more. Should we buy
  a photo printer, or should we send them out to be printed by
  a photo service? If the latter, which one? Since these aren't just
  everyday snapshots, I decided to investigate both options.


**Buying a Printer** -- Although I had no doubts about the quality
  of prints coming from digital photo labs, I wasn't so sure about
  the photo quality of any printer we could afford. I've used inkjet
  printers for years, and have never been truly happy with the
  quality of their photo output.

  However, I've never owned a "photo printer," a printer whose
  quality is supposed to be good enough to approximate a
  photographic print. I've also never used real photo paper, which
  is specially coated to make such high resolution printing
  possible. Unfortunately, this paper is expensive: around $0.30
  for a 4" x 6" piece, and $0.50 for an 8.5" x 11" piece. I also
  know that while inkjet printers are relatively cheap, ink
  cartridges are expensive and printing photos uses an enormous
  amount of ink per page (text covers about 5 percent of a piece
  of paper, but photos typically cover 90 to 100 percent of
  the page).

  Expensive ink cartridges, plus the cost of photo paper, made me
  rule out buying a photo printer. I didn't see any monetary
  savings, and I am still distrustful of the quality. This doesn't
  mean you can't get good results, especially if you plan to print
  relatively few pictures. But since we already own a black-and-
  white laser printer, we didn't see a compelling reason to add a
  photo printer.


**Digital Photography Labs** -- In the past, I've read about
  different digital photo labs, but I never paid full attention. I
  understood a few of their major issues and that their services
  cost a lot more than normal film developing. But one of the major
  benefits of digital photography, in my mind, is that you print
  only a small percentage of your pictures, which leads to overall
  savings. So I decided to try some of the photo labs listed in
  Yahoo, the most popular of which were Shutterfly, Club Photo,
  ImageStation, Ofoto (owned by Kodak), dotPhoto, Snapfish (owned by
  District Photo), PhotoAccess, eFrames, and searsphotos.com.

<http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/
Photography/Digital/Labs/>

  I added Walmart to the list, since it has such a huge retail
  presence, and I also added Apple's iPhoto-based service, which
  uses Kodak's Ofoto for prints. After a quick run through their
  sites, I developed some criteria for comparing the services: cost,
  ease of uploading, quality of the Web site, and range of products
  offered. I naively assumed that quality would not be an issue,
  thinking at the time that their output would be highly similar.

<http://www.shutterfly.com/>
<http://www.clubphoto.com/>
<http://www.imagestation.com/>
<http://www.ofoto.com/>
<http://www.dotphoto.com/>
<http://www.snapfish.com/>
<http://www.photoaccess.com/>
<http://www.eframes.com/>
<http://www.searsphotos.com/>
<http://www.walmartphotocenter.com/>
<http://www.apple.com/iphoto/>

  I should have known better. First, working in information
  technology (including supporting ad agencies) drilled into me a
  long time ago that color correction is a _huge_ issue. Second,
  I know that traditional photo labs aren't identical (a roll of
  film that comes out poorly is not necessarily your fault). I knew
  better, but my optimism about the possibilities of digital imaging
  blinded me at first. I quickly learned.


**Cost** - All of these services offer the same basic print sizes,
  4" x 6", 5" x 7", and 8" x 10". Some offer wallet and larger sizes
  as well, but for price comparisons, I stuck to the three basic
  sizes. For the most part, the prices are roughly the same as well
  (most also offer 3" x 5" prints at the 4" x 6" price.)

 Size        Cost
 -----------------
 4" x 6"     $0.49
 5" x 7"     $0.99
 8" x 10"    $3.99

  However, there were few standouts on price.

  On the negative side, searsphotos.com charges three times as much
  for 4" x 6" prints if you want to do even the simplest of image
  manipulation (including cropping and red-eye correction). Snapfish
  charges 20 percent more than the others ($0.59), and both are
  clearly set up for film developing. Although I did send a few
  samples to Snapfish to be developed, both companies failed the
  price test and were eliminated from competition. The
  searsphotos.com price was so out of line that I didn't even
  include them in the quality test. (The searsphotos.com service
  also limits files to 500K, clearly hurting their print quality,
  while Snapfish's ordering Web pages are horrendous.)

  On the positive side were PhotoAccess ($0.45, $1.09, and $2.95),
  Walmart ($0.26, $0.96, $2.98) and dotPhoto ($0.29, $0.95, and
  $2.95). Though Walmart also offers packages (one 8" x 10", two
  5" x 7" prints, and 16 wallet-sized prints for $9, for example),
  dotPhoto beats everyone on price and pricing options, offering
  subscription and bulk pricing. For $5 per month, you can order up
  to 26 4" x 6" prints ($0.19 per print), or you can pay $10 per
  month for 60 prints. Both plans offer lower prices on other sizes
  as well. Amazingly, any prints you do not use in a given month
  _do_ carry over to the next month. The only downside is that
  dotPhoto requires one year subscriptions. dotPhoto also allows you
  to purchase prints in bulk, where you pay up front for many
  photos, and have two years to use up your credit ($70 for 400
  4" x 6" prints, $35 for 50 5" x 7" prints, and $50 for 25 8" x 10"
  prints). If price is your main criterion, no one comes close to
  dotPhoto.

  Shipping costs vary by the size of your order and your chosen
  transit method. There wasn't much variation here, other than from
  Club Photo, which offers free standard shipping using the U.S.
  Postal Service. Walmart offers the option of picking up prints
  at a Walmart store free of shipping charges, but takes an
  extraordinarily long time to make them available if you do. Apple
  seems to be at the high end here, but not by enough to eliminate
  them from the running.


**Ease of Uploading** -- The most obnoxious part of using online
  digital photo labs is uploading multiple photos at once. Every
  site allows you to select files to upload manually, but this
  process involves clicking a Browse button and locating the files
  on your hard disk. The process gets old fast when repeated more
  than a few times.

  Fortunately, most of these services offer alternatives. For some,
  a standalone application can send multiple image files. Others use
  a plug-in for the Windows version of Internet Explorer. Requiring
  easy uploading from a Mac knocked a few of the services out of the
  running including eFrames, Walmart, dotPhoto, and ImageStation.

  The remaining services - Apple, Club Photo, Ofoto, PhotoAccess,
  and Shutterfly - each have a Macintosh application onto which you
  can drag the photos you want to upload. Apple is the only service
  to offer a Mac OS X-native application, but because iPhoto runs
  only under the new operating system, Mac OS 8 or 9 users are out
  of luck. Of the others, only PhotoAccess even mentions that
  they're working on a Mac OS X version. All four of the other
  companies' applications _do_ run under Classic.


**Web Site Evaluation** -- Each of these sites relies on the
  picture album metaphor for organizing pictures. You can name
  photos and add new ones as often as you wish. ClubPhoto charges
  customers more to keep their photos accessible online, with two
  packages ($25 and $35 per year) that also include discounts on all
  orders. Regardless, charging to keep photos from disappearing
  after just 30 or 90 days seems out of line.

  A great thing about digital photography is that you can edit and
  crop your photos _before_ you print them. Any digital photo lab
  for consumers must make this process practical, especially for
  users who lack image editing software. The remaining contenders
  differentiated themselves in this round.

  PhotoAccess offered the most minimal editing capabilities. Its
  upload application can rotate pictures, but the Web site offers no
  further editing possibilities, most notably no red-eye reduction.
  ClubPhoto also lacks red-eye correction, although its Web site can
  brighten or darken each picture.

  Ofoto's image uploading program can fix red-eye and crop images.
  Their Web site offers further capabilities such as adding borders
  to your pictures; however, this becomes Ofoto's most distressing
  feature, because the border covers most the image, rather than
  resizing the image to fit within the border. Ofoto can also print
  the images in black and white, sepia tones, or sepia-like tones
  (in red, green, or blue). Last, it can "fix lighting," which
  lightens dark images and darkens washed-out images.

  Shutterfly's Web site offers the most options, though its software
  does nothing but upload photos. At Shutterfly, you can add borders
  to images (which are automatically resized), fix red-eye, switch
  to black-and-white, change the color saturation, soften or sharpen
  the focus, or change the color tone. Shutterfly's site is also the
  easiest to navigate, especially when looking at albums with many
  photos in them.

  Apple uses a completely different model, with iPhoto handling all
  the organization and editing of your photos. Its editing
  capabilities are limited to rotating images, performing red-eye
  reduction, cropping (with a nifty aspect ratio tool), and
  conversion to black-and-white, although all Macs now ship with
  Caffeine Software's free PixelNhance, which extends iPhoto's
  editing capabilities nicely. There are no tone controls (for
  sepia-like prints) or any of the other effects offered by the
  others. Although iPhoto is far easier to use than any of the Web
  sites, it doesn't offer as many features, and nothing at the level
  of Adobe PhotoDeluxe. That said, I expect that future versions
  will address most of my concerns in short order.

<http://www.adobe.com/products/photodeluxe/>
<http://www.caffeinesoft.com/products/pnh/pnh_index.html>

  Finally, although I didn't test this feature, each Web site lets
  you share your photos so that other people can order their own
  copies of your prints. Apple's solution here is that iPhoto makes
  it extremely easy to turn photos into a Web-based photo album at
  homepage.mac.com, but the free space Apple provides limits the
  number of high resolution photos you can share. Services which
  remove photos after a short amount of time limit the usefulness of
  their sharing functionality.


**Range of Products** -- Most of these services don't stop at
  printing photos. A few also sell digital camera and digital video
  equipment, though not at competitive prices. Mousepads, customized
  greeting cards, and mugs are the rule, and most offer picture
  frames as well.

  Shutterfly offers only the basic items that they all share. Ofoto
  adds a huge range of frames and photo albums, along with Archive
  CDs priced starting at $10, based on the number of photos). Club
  Photo offers $8 Album CDs, which contain up to 60 photos, and
  Archive CDs (also starting at $10, based on the number of images),
  which contain all of your photos. Other products from ClubPhoto
  include frames, food (really!), checks, stamps, Post-It note pads,
  puzzles, posters, stuffed animals, aprons, t-shirts, jewelry, and
  even a night light. PhotoAccess extends the basics with t-shirts,
  sweatshirts, hats, puzzles, aprons, playing cards, canisters,
  tote bags, slides, and even customized wrapping paper. Most
  interestingly to me, PhotoAccess is the only service to offer
  "digital prints" whose proportions match that of most monitors,
  televisions and cameras.

  Only Apple's service offers an impressive hardcover book
  (measuring 11.5 by 9 inches). The linen cover comes in your choice
  of black, burgundy, light gray, or navy, and you can choose six
  formats when designing your book and laying out the photos.
  Unfortunately, the price is high ($3 per page with a 10 page
  minimum and a 50 page maximum) and the paper/print quality isn't
  amazing (something like magazine quality). That cost quickly adds
  up, especially for larger books, even though you can have multiple
  photos per page. Although others haven't experienced the same
  problems, I had troubles - particularly when rearranging pages in
  book mode - building books larger than about 12 pages. Rearranging
  photos in organize mode and designing the book left-to-right
  worked better.

  iPhoto is actually a front end to a Web service called
  myPublisher. Although ordering directly from myPublisher offers a
  few more options, including leather covers and dust jackets,
  iPhoto makes the process of building and ordering a book vastly
  easier. For all the trouble I had with iPhoto, I can't imagine
  trying to use myPublisher's Web site for a real project, which
  requires uploading photos individually from a browser.

<http://www.mypublisher.com/>

  Shutterfly also offers a book to its customers, albeit a very
  different one. The Snapbook is a spiral-bound book with a
  translucent plastic cover containing up to 40 pages, available in
  a 4" x 6" or 5" x 7" size (priced at a maximum of $25 or $30,
  respectively, depending on the number of photos, up to 40). You
  can choose from a handful of designs, but unlike Apple's books,
  they offer only one picture per page. Although I like Shutterfly's
  Web site, I had a few problems putting my book together. Still,
  the Snapbook's price is compelling, especially given that the
  largest Snapbook costs less than buying the pages individually,
  and is the same price as a 10-page book from Apple.

<http://www.shutterfly.com/snapbooks/>

  After examining all of the companies' Web sites and ordering
  prints from each, I couldn't name a clear winner. Different
  services had different strengths, whether price, variety of
  products, site design, or ease of use. However, as soon as I
  received my first set of prints, I realized that there was a lot
  that I hadn't considered properly. In the next installment of this
  article, I'll detail my mistakes and the surprising final result.

  [Alexander Mishra Hoffman is an IT Manager in New York City, a Red
  Sox and Pats fan, and a newlywed.]



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